Home Improvement for Women

Save your back and the expense of buying another piece of infant furniture by building this simple changing station that can sit on top of a dresser or bed for quick and easy pit stops.

Materials: Baby changing pad, 1″ x (depends on the size of the pad) lumber, screws, nails, dowels and plugs, wood glue, sandpaper, tack cloth, 10 or 25′ tape measure, power drill, hammer, goggles, dust mask, circular or table saw, router, palm sander, clamps and combination square.

Before you begin: Baby changing pads come in different sizes, so you’ll need to custom-fit your table to the particular pad you choose. Take into account the length, width and height of the pad itself. Add at least 1/4″ all to each of these measurements to determine the dimensions of the box. Calculate the amount of wood you’ll need by determining the total height of the box, plus the thickness of the flooring material, plus the height of the space you want underneath the floor of the box, plus the height you want the sides and back to extend up from the box floor.

Step One: A Dry Run

Using a table saw, cut the five pieces of the changing table (bottom/floor, 2 sides, back and front rail) to the correct size based on your calculations above. It’s likely that the floor needs to be deeper than the boards you are using. If this is the case, use two or more pieces to match the floor width and glue them together. You can use dowels or biscuits in the edges of the boards to strengthen the glue joints.

Using the height of the space you want under the floor, measure the side and back panels from the bottom up to the floor level. Mark the panels. During assembly, the bottom edge of the floor should align with these marks. Dry fit all the pieces and mark the joints where the boards meet.

Step Two: Smooth Sailing

Use a router to round the corners of the boards that won’t be covered by joints. Use sandpaper to smooth the boards. Follow with the tack cloth to remove dust.

Step Three: Putting it all Together

Use the marks you made during the dry-fit to align the pieces for assembly. Drill pilot holes for finish nails. If you choose to assemble with screws, countersink them so  you can cover them with wood buttons.

Assemble the changing table in this order: back edge of the floor to face of the back; sides to the floor and back, front rail to front edge of floor and sides.

Step Four: Ready for Diaper Duty

You did it yourself! No you’ve got a safe and secure place for a quick change. Remember to never leave your baby unattended on any high surface, not even for a second!

Timesaving Tip: When sanding wood, rub the surface lightly with a damp cloth. The water will cause some of the grain to swell. Once the wood dries, you can sand again until perfectly smooth.

Yesterday being the clutz I am, I tripped over a baby stroller while strolling myself down Fifth Ave… there is a baby boom going on right now.! It seems like everyone has got a little bambino by her (or his) side. It made me think back to my own diaper-changing days and how concerned I was about turning my home into a safe haven for my son. All new parents should start thinking about baby proofing their homes, even before their precious bundles start expressing their natural curiosity. Of course, your home should already be equipped with smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. But better to get baby proofing now, because when the baby starts toddling you could be too busy to remember these eight simple safety steps. All of the equipment is available at baby stores and home centers – even your local hardware store:

1. City dwellers in particular must install window guards to help prevent falls from windows, terraces, and balconies. It’s the law! Screens are not enough. There should be no more than four inches between window guard bars. Make sure that one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window guards cost around $12 per guard.
2. Use safety latches and locks on all kitchen and bathroom cabinets and drawers to stop little ones from getting access to household cleaners, medicines, liquor, and knives or other sharp objects. Such latches generally cost $2-$3 each.
3. Inexpensive plastic outlet and plate covers help prevent electrocution. Get the best – they are cheap, less than $10 for a pack of 12. You want to make sure they are difficult for children to remove, and big enough so as not to present a chocking hazard.
4. Cut all window blind cords and use safety tassels and inner cord stops to help prevent strangling. Better yet, now if the time to replace your old mini blinds with new ones that already have safety features to prevent child strangulation. Depending on the size and style, new blinds range from $15 – $100 each.
5. Safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Safety gates can help keep children away from stairs or rooms that have hazards in them. Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.
6. Oven knob covers cost about $9 or $10 for a pack of five. They prevent curious hands from “exploring” the stove and potentially filling the house with gas…but are east for adults to open so meals can be prepared easily.
7. Cut those corners with corner bumpers. These soft rubber edge covers can be placed on sharp corners on coffee tables, fireplace hearths and other furniture with right angles. Furniture bumpers cost about $1 a piece. While you’re at it, pick up a few doorstops…they help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed. Doorstops cost about $2-$5 each.
8. Clean up! Keep small objects, like buttons, coins, rings, off of all floors and surfaces, as they present chocking and swallowing hazards. Large glass vases and other breakable items should be stored high up, where your child cannot reach them.

Finally, give your bundle of joy lots of  love!

If I can do it, so can you!

Many a New Year’s resolution is about losing weight or making more money. But when it comes to achieving one’s goals, there’s nothing more important than a good foundation — and for me, that begins in the home. I’m a firm believer that home improvement = self improvement!

So, with a bit of inspiration from me, mixed with a little elbow grease and your hidden DIY talent (but keep in mind when to call in the pros), you can add some pizzazz to your home without breaking the bank. Here are my five top home-upgrade projects to take on in 2012.

THE HARD STUFF

One of the most important spaces in any home is the kitchen. Give it a relatively affordable face-lift by renewing the counters. Stone fabricators such as NY Stone Manhattan (nystonemanhattan.com) will come to your home, measure and make a template and, in a couple of weeks, install your new counters. Homeowners can measure their existing counters themselves for an initial quote. However, actual measurements need to completed by the fabricators before the template is made.

There are many materials and colors to choose from: engineered products like resin and quartz; natural bamboo or reclaimed wood; paper composite; Formica; stainless-steel and other metals like copper. Prices typically run from around $50 to upwards of $200 per square foot, depending on what you choose. But there are affordable granites that start at around $20 per square foot. Most affordable granites, which tend to come from China, have large amounts of speckles or a salt-and-pepper look (white with black dots).

ADD SPARKLE

Metallic paint is a great alternative to ordinary latex paint and can add dimension, sparkle and glamour to a dining room, bedroom, entryway or bathroom. If you want a subtle effect, add a metallic finish to the trim. For an over-the-top look, use it on your ceiling. Sherwin-Williams makes a variety of metallic glazes and finishes, and most require a simple two-step process. The paint costs about $55 a gallon. (In general, a gallon of paint will cover about 350 square feet.)

PANEL MAGIC

There’s no better spot to think great thoughts or read a good book than in a private nook within an existing larger room. Carve out a corner with some hanging panels. Hang wooden panels from the ceiling with wire and large eye hooks. Be sure to use studs in the wall to make everything more secure. Then add a great daybed, like the Webster leather daybed from Pottery Barn, which has a 1940s French feel ($1,499-$1,699). Add a luxe throw and you’ve created an enviable escape right at home.

SETTING THE MOOD

Make your under-used dining area — or any under-used entertaining area — more inviting by adjusting the light. You can start by adding a dimmer. Dimmer switches come in do-it-yourself kits these days and are available at most home centers and hardware stores. Home Depot sells a Lutron three-way dimmer kit for $54.

And don’t forget some beautiful pillar candles. Beeswaxcandles.com sells scented and unscented versions, with luscious colors like moss, pistachio and amber, starting at $7. Other cozy touches can include Nisha Bohemian 24-inch floor pillows ($22.99 at overstock.com) or an Alpine Buddha statue ($44.04 at wayfair.com).

DOOR OF OPPORTUNITY

The front door is one of the first things people see when they come to your home. Give it a boost with a bright color — think high-gloss red, bright blue or even lime green. Benjamin Moore Aura Exterior Paint gets high marks for easy application and cleanup and costs about $58 a gallon.

For more ideas and DIY tips, visit barbarak.com.

The following tips and details of how to complete Home preparations to survive in the cold winter we are having will not only save you money, but can protect you from bodily injury from extreme elements. They are  inexpensive  tasks and be performed by most people themselves.

We will now start with Home/Apartment preparations.

Tip No. 1.:

Make sure all windows and storm windows are properly closed to prevent heat loss and higher utility costs.

Details:

In most older homes and apartments with original windows there is usually a single pane of glass separating you from the outside. You can tell if ice builds up on the inside of your glass  that is a single pane of glass. To manage heat loss make sure the top half and bottom half are securely closed to the window frame and sill. If storm windows and screens have been installed, they must also be tightly closed to create an insulated air pocket between each layer of glass. If storm windows have not been installed, you can purchase a thin clear plastic drop cloth from your local home center and use double sided tape to secure to the inside of the window frame covering the whole window frame to create an insulated barrier to stop the ice build up and heat loss.

Tip No. 2.:

If you have window or through wall air conditioners that remain in place all year, it is important to insulate them to stop cold air infiltration.

Details:

All air conditioners are an open conduit to outside air. First the vent switch should be closed. This vent closes off the direct flow of outside air but does not stop the cold air from coming in. You should go to your local home center and purchase an insulated, waterproof a/c blanket that fits your unit and secure as recommended. If you cannot find a blanket in your size, you can use common wall insulation and wrap your unit and then use a large plastic bag to wrap the insulation and secure with tape. If those are not options, you can remove the inside front grille and insert a towel or small blanket into the opening where the air comes out. Be sure to remove all forms of your protection and insulation before turning on you’re a/c in the Spring or Summer.

Tip No.3.:

Shut off all outside water spickets (hose connections) and drain out water to prevent your pipes from freezing and rupturing which can cause a flood.

Details:

Most outside spickets have a valve on the inside of your home in the basement. Shut off valve and go back outside and open the spicket to check that it is off and leave spicket open (or on) to allow excess water to drain out. Leave open all winter so if there is any excess water in the pipe it will freeze out of the open end and not damage your pipes. You can also call your local plumber to assist if your pipes are not exposed in the basement.

Tip No. 4.:

Have your snow shovel and ice melt (salt) accessible and ready to use.

Details:

If you know a storm is coming get your snow removal items out of the garage and/or shed and leave just outside your door to prevent that dreadful walk through knee high snow, which creates cold wet feet.

Tip No. 5.:

Make sure all room drains and gutters are clean to prevent water damage and costly repairs.

Details:

When the leaves are done falling in the Autumn there is usually a  build  up of leaves in the gutters that rain water just can’t flush out. This will clog your gutters and the drains at the end of gutters which create water build-up and excessive weight. When the cold weather rolls in the water will begin to freeze and build up  behind the gutter. When the ice melts it can now penetrate into your home and cause wall and ceiling damage that will require repairs. To prevent problems, if your gutters are accessible clean out cold leaves just before winter. There are also companies in the yellow pages for hire that will clean them.

Tip No. 6.:

Make sure your fireplace flue (damper) is closed wen not in use to prevent heat loss.

Details:

If you have a fireplace that is used occasionally (weekends etc.), it is important to remember to close the flue the next day when the fire is completely out because the chimney is an open conduit to the outside air that allows an extreme amount of cold air directly into your home or an extreme amount of warm air directly out of your home. The flue is opened and closed by a metal handle that can be pushed up to open or pulled down to close.

Note: It is also a good idea to clean out the ashes the next day to prevent unwanted odors.

Tip No. 7.:

Make sure you have  a mat or small area carpet at the entrance to your home to prevent injury to you or your guests.

Details:

When snow, ice and sand on the ground adhere to your shoes and you enter your home you now have created a very slippery condition when walking on vinyl, wood, marble or tile floors that can very easily make you fall and injure yourself. The mat or carpet will remove them just from stepping on it and help prevent a fall.

Now these tips should save you from higher utility  bills, costly repairs and potential bodily injury in your home. Be safe and stay warm!

Give your kitchen a whole new feel without going through the time, expense, and hassle of a complete remodeling b y changing the look of your cabinets.

A facelift can consist simply of a good cleaning to bring out faded colors, or involve replacement of cabinet hardware and painting/refinishing work as well. Consider the time and effort you want to expend on this project, how long you want your kitchen out of commission, and design concerns prior to starting.

STEP ONE: Prep Work

Remove cabinet doors, label them to make sure they go back in the right place. If desired, remove hinges and cabinet hardware for later cleaning/replacement. Lay drop cloths as needed (don’t skimp) to protect counters, appliances, and floors.

STEP TWO: Scrub-a-dub-dub

Don rubber gloves and eyewear, prepare cleaner following manufacturer’s instructions. Scrub first cabinet door, then rinse. Repeat until rinse water is clean. Repeat process for all doors, then fixed cabinet surfaces. If  you’re going to repaint or refinish, move on to step three. Otherwise, allow wood to dry, and reattach cabinets.

If  you’ve removed hardware, clean by soaking in warm soapy water for thirty minutes, and scrubbing lightly with a soft brush. Let dry, polish as needed, and reattach. If you want to replace hardware, be sure to bring samples of the old hinges/pulls when you go shopping, so you can make sure your new hardware will fit.

STEP THREE: Surface Work

If you really want to change the look of your cabinets, repainting or refinishing is in order. The former is a relatively simple process. Start by patching any conspicuous dings (holes, scratches, nicks, etc.) in the wood surface with wood filler. Then sand the entire cabinet surface (to smooth out the patches and scuff up the paint) before applying primer (two coats may be necessary if you’re going over a dark color) and paint of your choice.

Refinishing is a  more involved procedure. To start, you’ll  need to strip away your existing finish/paint with a chemical agent. Determine which particular stripper to use by finding out what’s currently on your cabinets.

If your cabinets are painted, you have either oil or water-based paint. Rub a cotton ball moistened with alcohol on an inconspicuous surface area – if it smears or softens, you’ve got latex. Use the appropriate paint remover.

Finishes are more difficult to tell apart. Your best bet is to try a few different stripping agents (again, on an inconspicuous area) and see how the finish reacts. Turpentine will dissolve wax-based finishes. Xylene will liquefy water-based finishes. Denatured alcohol will dissolve shellac, as will lacquer thinner – which also (obviously) will work on lacquer. To strip polyurethane or varnish finishes, you’ll need paint or varnish remover (though afterwards, you may still need to sand off some of the old finish). No matter what kind of finish you have, apply the stripping agent, and then stand back – let it do the work (don’t try and scrub off your existing finish).

Next, you’ll patch the surface as above and sand to smooth. Now you’re ready to refinish. Apply your new cabinet coating as per manufacturers instructions, and let dry. Reattach cabinets, and voila! You’re ready to show off your brand new kitchen.

Timesaving Tip: Always use a clean part of the washcloth as you clean your cabinet surface, to prevent smearing.

A Holiday Home  in Under 2 ½ Hours

If you’re like me, you are super busy at holiday time (and probably all the time). That often means preparations for holiday decorating come later in the season than you hoped, especially when it comes to projects around the house. Well, I have a 5-step, foolproof game plan for holiday preparedness that is easy to implement, simple, and effective. You’ll be ready to spread holiday cheer and toast the New Year in style in no time.

1. De-clutter and give back

Time: 2 hours

Clean up, make way for new toys, and teach the art of giving and recycling to your kids all at the same time. Devote a morning, afternoon or evening to going through your child’s toys to identify what he or she no longer uses, what is still in good condition, and then donate those items to a shelter or charity. Recycle plastic broken or worn toys on trash day, and toss those that do not meet recycling requirements.

2. Add greenery

Time: 30 minutes

Even if you don’t celebrate Christmas with a trimmed tree, you can still add some natural scent and texture to your home, which is seasonal and should carry you through to the New Year. Boughs of holly or fir branches simply placed or draped on the mantel or arranged in vases, large and small, adds color and life,  just what’s needed as we head deep into winter.

3. Light up your life

Time: 30 minutes

Fairy or string lights add twinkle and sparkle to your home and are easy to hang. New LED and battery operated lights make adding lights to your decor even easier, more creative and energy efficient. So don’t just take the traditional route and line a window or mantel with lights. Try twisting them around a banister, hanging them across kitchen cabinets (the cook deserves some cheer too!) or pile them in a glass bowl and set them on a coffee table.

4. Set a fruitful table

Time: 15 minutes

Flowers are in short supply in the winter, they are expensive and travel long distances, making them the least green choice you can make for your holiday table. Instead, look in the grocery store for a bounty of seasonal and beautiful fruits and nuts for your holiday centerpiece. It’s an easy, elegant, edible and long lasting alternative to a vase full of hot- house red roses. Fill a large glass hurricane lamp with tangerines and limes; a silver bowl can overflow with nuts and lady apples; a basket of red and green pears all make fabulous centerpieces.

5. Take a powder

Time: 15 minutes

The bathroom is often overlooked when it comes to holiday decorating. But, a lovely scented powder room, nicely decorated is an essential part of successful entertaining and hospitality. Since it’s a small room it is easy to decorate. Invest in a new set of towels in seasonal colors, winter white and sky blue, crimson and gold, or green and brown. Then add some pine scented soaps, scent diffusers, and lotion on the counter. A pretty container of hand cream will be much appreciated by you and your guests, nothing gets drier faster in winter than your hands!

Voila! You’re ready for a party. If I can do it, so can you!

Covering a plain sheetrock or laminate covered backsplash with a tile version is definitely one of them. This relatively simple and inexpensive project can add thousands of dollars in value to your home. Tile adds sparkle and glitz and richness to a kitchen. Plus, a backsplash is highly practical: Just wipe off splatters with a damp sponge!

How long will it take me? A day and a half. Installing will take about a day. You must wait for the tile to set before grouting, which can be done the day after installation.

How much will it cost? It depends on what kind of tile you buy. Tile prices vary – stock 4 X 4 squares can be less than a dollar apiece. Handmade or glass or marble tiles can cost several dollars per tile. You also need to buy supplies, which luckily are not terribly expensive. You could tile your backsplash for as little at $300 – more if you want designer tiles.

What do I need? Tiling requires special, but inexpensive, equipment.

Materials:

• Waterproof mastic tile adhesive
• Waterproof grout
• Glazed ceramic wall tiles (remember, buy 10% more than you need. See below for instructions on measuring your space.)
• Plastic spacers, sized for your tile
• Rubber work gloves
• Plastic washers
• Screws (1-1/4″ to 1-5/8″)

Tools:

• Screw driver
• Palm sander and coarse sandpaper (if you are placing tile over laminate)
• Tape measure
• Level
• Manual tile cutter
• Tile nippers
• Safety glasses
• Notched trowel
• Rubber grout float

How do I do it? Before you start there are a few things you have to do. First, check the walls to ensure they are dry and sturdy enough to hold the weight of the tile. If you have damaged drywall, repair or replace it. Then get going:

1.      Make a plan

First, decide how far up the wall the backsplash should extend. A backsplash can extend anywhere from 4″ up from the countertop to all the way up to the bottom of the wall cabinets. I think a full expanse backsplash that goes from countertop to cabinet bottom is the most desirable and luxurious. If you are doing it yourself, why not go all the way?

2.      Estimate quantity

Measure the length and width of the backsplash area. If you have a U or galley style kitchen and plan to tile more than one wall, measure each wall individually. Determine square footage by multiplying the length times the width of each wall you are covering. If applicable, add all the figures to get an overall total. You buy tile in square foot quantities so take this number with you to the store. Add 10% of the total so you have extra tiles in case of breakage and extra cuts. Save left over tiles in case damage occurs later on. You will be able to replace the tile with a matching one (which may be hard to match after the fact).

3.      Choose your tile

Select a tile that you love, but that also blends with the existing finishes in your kitchen (or that will go well with finishes you plan to add later). Ceramic tiles come in many colors and styles – square, mosaic set on mesh, brick-shaped. Have fun but take care when selecting something extremely specific – you may tire of it more quickly than a tile with classic color and style.

4.      Buy materials

5.      Prepare the walls

If you have a laminate paneling covering the backsplash tile adhesives will not stick to it and the tiles won’t stick at all or fall off eventually.    An easy solution is to sand the laminate with the coarsest grit sandpaper you can find to create a “tooth” for the adhesive to hold onto. Laminate is tough stuff so only the coarsest sandpaper gets the surface roughed up enough to proceed with the tiling. Use a circulate motion to sand the large parts of the backsplash for speed and sand by hand in smaller areas, around windows and tight corners. You could sand the whole area by hand, but it will take longer.

If your backsplash is a painted surface, simply clean it and let it dry then sand lightly with medium grit sandpaper. Clean off any dust before proceeding.

6.      Clear countertops

Remove all small appliances and turn off the power to electrical outlets in the area where you are working. Remove electrical outlet covers. Clean the area with a household sponge and warm water. Allow to dry.

7.      If you have a tiled countertop

Plan the layout so the backsplash grout veins line up with the countertop grout veins. You can use the countertop tiles as a guide. If you don’t have a tiled countertop, start by centering the first tile in the center of the base of the backsplash. Use a tape measure to find the center and mark it lightly with a pencil.

8.      Put on a pair of rubber or latex gloves

Apply the manufacturer’s recommended adhesive with a notched trowel to the wall by holding the tool at a 45° angle and spread a thin (about 1/16″) layer to the wall. Work in small 3′ x 3′ areas so the adhesive doesn’t dry out.

9.      Lay the first tile in the center at the base of the backsplash

Position the tile using a gentle twisting motion so it settles into the adhesive. Use a level to make sure the tile is square. Place a spacer at each corner of the first tile. Cut one end of the spacers off in order to fit them between the countertop and the bottom of the tile. Push the spacers into the adhesive.

10.  Working out from the first tile

Continue laying the tiles in a row, flush to the spacers. Use a sponge to wipe off adhesive that oozes up between the tiles. Place the spacers at the corners of each tile as you go, to maintain even spacing. Occasionally check to make sure the tiles are level. After one row is complete, begin with the next row and follow the same adhesive, tile and spacer application until you are done.

11.  If you need to cut tiles to fit at the end of the row

Score the tile with a tile cutter. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for the tile nippers or saw to remove the scored area. When placing tiles around outlets, make sure that the outlet will cover the tile edges when reinstalled.

12.  When you have laid all the tiles

Wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Keep rinsing it and wiping until you all the excess grout has been removed from the top of tiles.

13. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions to determine set up time. After the adhesive sets, remove all the spacers.

14.  Mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions

Grout is irritating to the skin and eyes so please wear safety glasses when mixing it and wear rubber or latex gloves when working with it.

15.  Apply the grout using a rubber float

Spread the grout diagonally at a 45° angle across the tiles, packing the grout between the tiles using gentle pressure. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge when the grout becomes firm, but not dry.

16. Clean the tiles again and smooth joints with a damp sponge.

17. After the grout dries a haze will be visible. Wipe off the tiles and polish them with a clean cloth.

18. Replace electrical covers.

You will need longer screws to replace the outlets covers. Use the new longer 1-1/4″ to 1-5/8″ screws with plastic washers behind the outlet to bring the outlet out flush with the tile.

19. Make yourself a cup of tea, sit back and enjoy your fabulous new backsplash!

Storing my pots and pans in my low cabinets and drawers was not only inconvenient, but inevitably, my favorite saute pan would end up in the far reaches of the cabinet, making it difficult to reach. Plus, the bulky pots took up a lot of valuable space. My solution? Hanging a pot rack from the ceiling. Not only did it free up more space, I can now see what I need and grab it easily. The most important aspect of hanging a pot rack is making sure the large bolts that go into the ceiling and hold the rack (that holds the pans) go into ceiling joists. Most ceiling rack kits are spaced to match the spacing of ceiling joists, which is usually 400 mm (16″).

The rack  you choose will come with instructions. There are different kinds of pot racks and each kind has specific installation methods. Please follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

What you need: ladder, safety glasses, stud finder, cardboard (you can use the box the rack came in), hanging ceiling pot rack kit, pencil, painter’s tape, power drill with screwdriver bits and wrench or pliers with rubber-coated handle.

How to get it done:

1. Because you will be standing on a ladder, make sure the area you are working on is clear! and you have someone there to help you.
2. Wear Safety glasses
3. Locate the ceiling joists, using a stud finder, and mark their position in pencil on the ceiling. Then, using the cardboard from the hanging ceiling pot rack kit, make a template using the outside of the rack as a guide. Make holes (use a pencil to poke through the cardboard) where the four ceiling hooks that come with the kit are located for attaching the rack to the ceiling.
4. Tape the template to the ceiling with painter’s tape, making sure that the holes you made are placed in the middle of the marked joist positions.
5. Use a pencil to mark the four corner holes on the ceiling. This will be where you will drill.
6. Drill holes using the bit size the manufacturer recommends and then screw in the heavy eye hooks that will hold the chain of the rack. For leverage, use a rubber-coated handle of a wrench to turn the hooks. It won’t mar the chrome or finish of the hook and it will save your hands!
7. Next, hang the chains that attach to the rack. It’s best if the rack is placed at a height that’s easy for the cook in the house to reach. Be mindful of how far your pans with long handles will hang. You may have to try a couple of chain lengths before you get it right.
8. Once everything is in place, hang your pots!

Now no more bending down and reaching into the depths of your kitchen cabinets for a pot.

Here, kitty, kitty, kitty. Keep kitty happy and away from upholstered furniture, by building this simple scratching post. It’s the perfect outlet for your cat’s instinctive compulsion to claw.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 4′ of 1″x4″ pine, 1″ nails, 2″ screws, 50 feet of 3/8″ sisal rope, 14″ diameter edge glued round board or square plywood board (for base), wood glue, water-based liquid stain or latex paint, water based polyurethane, cordless drill and bits, 16 oz. hammer, 2″ paint brush, utility knife, tape measure, circular saw (or have your local hardware or home center store pre-cut the wood for you), sandpaper, wood clamps and work gloves.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Paint or stain the base of the scratching post using water-based stain or latex paint. Finish with a layer of water-based polyurethane. Make sure each layer is completely dry before beginning to assemble.

STEP ONE: Tall enough for a good stretch and scratch

Cut two 24″ pieces of lumber and sand the ends. Glue the post pieces together (face to face) making sure the ends are flush. Clamp the pieces together and allow them to dry for at least an hour.

STEP TWO: Wrap it up

Using 1″ nails, tightly secure one end of the sisal rope to the top of the post. Wearing your work gloves, wrap the sisal rope around the post. Make sure you wrap it very tightly so there is no space between each row. Continue wrapping to the bottom of the post and secure the rope at the bottom with 1″ nails. Trim off any access.

STEP THREE: Stand it up

Attach the post to the base using 2″ screws. Drill into the lumber and not the seam where the posts are joined. Make sure the post is secure and doesn’t rock. If it tips over while your cat is using it, your cat will be wary about using it again.

Settle into your (unclawed) easy chair and watch kitty go to town. You did it yourself!

Time saving tip: Lure your cat to its new scratching site by rubbing the sisal rope with catnip and bringing your cat over to smell it.

A brand new curbside mailbox can add style and function to your front lawn  — and make life a little easier for your mail carrier. Look for an extra-large box and consider painting it in a color to match your house!

What you need: 40lb. bag of quick-drying cement, Cordless drill or a 6-in-1 interchangeable screwdriver,  A 4-in-1 level, Work gloves, Shovel and Post hole digger

Hot to get it done:

Before You Begin: If you are installing a mailbox in a new location, call your local utility companies before you begin to dig. They will come out and mark your property so that you know the location of underground cables and pipes before you dig.

1. Select the right placement for your mailbox. Make sure you choose a site at least 40″ away from your driveway to allow for sufficient clearance for vehicles. Your local postmaster can tell you the proper height of the box and the distance it should be from the street. City requirements can vary, so it’s worth checking. Generally, the bottom of the mailbox should be between 42″ and 48″ from the ground (not the curb). The front of the mailbox should be about 6″ to 8″ away from the edge of the street.

2. Using the shovel, cut away a 12″ square of ground, saving the dirt and sod. Dig down at least 6″, then use your post hole digger to make the hole about 28″ to 30″ deep. (This is the hard part.) Wear your gloves and flex those muscles! Place the post in the hole and measure from the ground to the top of the post. It should be between 36″ to 42″ high.

3. With the post in the hole, begin adding the cement. Use a hard instrument, like the handle of your shovel, to tamp the cement firmly into the hole. You do not have to mix or wet the cement. It will harden and cure from the natural moisture of the soil around it. If your area is extremely dry, you may have to prepare a wet cement mixture according to the instructions on the bag.  Fill the hole 1/4 to 1/2 full, and then check the post on all sides with your level, to make sure it is not leaning in any one direction.

4. Finish adding cement to the within 4″ of the top of the hole, making sure to tamp the cement down and checking at least one more time with the level to make sure the post isn’t leaning to one direction. Replace the dirt and sod around the base of the mailbox.  You do not want any cement to be showing. Attach the mailbox to the pole using screws. Make sure the pole is clean and free of cement residue, and paint or stain to match your house.

5. Write yourself a letter of recommendation. You did it yourself!