Home Improvement for Women

You survived your SATs, you managed to get out all those college applications and still found time to shop for something to wear to the prom. Next to all that, decorating your dorm room is a no-brainer, right? You’d think so, except that at many colleges, there are tons of rules regarding what you can and can’t do in your dorm room. Before you start channeling your inner interior designer, be sure you know:

*What the school provides (generally speaking, you can count on a bed, a desk, a chair and a dresser)

*What you are and are not allowed to bring (usually it’s thumbs up to computers and stereos; no-nos may include hot plates, candles and microwaves)

*What you can and can’t do in your room (some colleges don’t allow anything to be nailed or screwed into the wall, which means no shelves, frames pictures or posters; other schools ban all student paint jobs).

*What your roommates tastes are, you may love 70’s hippy, while your roomies may love modern chic.

The first step when you move into your dorm room is to get organized. Unpack everything as soon as possible; if you can’t find a place for things, consider whether you really need them after all. If not, don’t hesitate to send them back with your parents! It’ll be a lot easier in the long run.

Next, identify your organizational trouble-spots; are your books falling over or are your shoes all over the closet? If so, you’ll want to shop for organizers for these.

Once you’ve gotten organized, it’s time to start decorating, You’ll want to decide on theme, color scheme or unifying style before you buy anything.

Not only will this save you money, but your room won’t look like it has multiple personality disorder. While many people just bring the things that were in their bedroom at home, it’s much nicer if your room’s décor marks a new beginning in your life

Some themes you could plan your room around include hobbies (dancing, surfing, basketball, music, movies); a place you love (the Caribbean, the Southwest, Japan or Africa) or a style you adore (60’s mod, 80’s new wave, 90’s thrift shop chic).

Look around! The color schemes you choose may also be found in your favorite things, like banana splits, sunsets or your new shirt.

Labor day is upon us and now is the time to start planning for the BBQ with friends and family. Time to get the deck cleaned and the BBQ smoking! I am not much of a cook, but I do love to barbecue; in fact I am a master at taming the flame and grilling up all sorts of goodies. But what’s as important as owning a good grill is having a nice deck to put it on.

What I’ve found is after a long winter and rainy spring, my deck can look pretty dismal – it’s a fact that staining and water proofing don’t last forever. To me a dull, dirty deck is to you house what ring around the collar is to a crisp white shirt – it makes the whole thing look dingy. Giving your deck a face-lift not only beautifies your home, it also adds value if you’re considering selling. And now is the time to tackle the project, before summer temperatures make it too hot for staining. (Stain won’t dry properly if applied during extreme conditions: when it’s over 55 degrees.)

First, wash the deck. (Why not have your family or friends jump in and help?) You can rent a power washer, or scrub it by hand using a long-handled bristle brush and warm soapy water (a cup of bleach added to two gallons of water will remove mildew and moss).

Next, rinse thoroughly using a high-pressure jet spray hose attachment. Let the deck dry completely. pour deck stain in the shade of your choice into a paint tray and use an extended-handle roller to apply. Spread slightly, and try not to overlap edges. Use a small brush to apply stain to railings or other decorative wood pieces.

Let the stain dry for 24 hours, and voila, you’ll be ready to enjoy a barbecue-filled Labor Day weekend with your friends on your just like new deck!

In these late, lazy days of summer, one of my pleasures is to spend a Saturday morning hitting tag sales and flea markets. You know what they say: “One woman’s trash is another’s treasure…” With a little imagination my Saturday finds become my Sunday do-it-yourself projects. Here are two quick and easy projects that promote reuse and recycling of vintage materials and that you can do yourself in just a few hours (minus the necessary but fun hours spent browsing for just the right materials!)

Antique doorknob coat or towel rack

You’ll need a wooden base for the rack: look for a pediment,· molding or even a mantle that has interesting detail. You can be completely creative about the size and shape–just make sure that the back is flat so that it will hang flush to the wall.

My favorite part is the search for vintage doorknobs; look for enameled, brass, cut glass, or ornately designed. Consider whether you are planning to paint, stain or leave your wooden base “as is” for an antiqued finish. I love the look of glass knobs on a white painted base; brass on a deep wood finishes, or white enamel on a colorful painted background. It’s not important whether or not the doorknob has its hardware. You may want to use the screw plate at the base or you may decide to set the knob flush to the base. Either way is fine.

Haul your treasures home and measure the thickness of the wooden base. Take the knobs to the hardware store and find screws that are the right thickness and length so the knob will slip on to it and fit flush to the wood.

Paint, stain, or lightly sand your base. Flip it over and arrange the knobs on the back. Mark where each knob will go and using your cordless power drill (a must-have basic in every homeowner’s toolkit); drill each screw through from the back. Be sure to sink the screw slightly so the base will fit flush to the wall when you hang it. Flip the base over so the screws protrude from the front.
If you are using the faceplate, center it over each screw and attach it.

Using a hot glue gun, cover the screw with silicone adhesive and slide the doorknob over the screw.
When the glue has dried, attach keyhole hooks to the back of the base and there you have it: the perfect coat rack, towel rack.

Mounted Wall Organizer  

Another reusable resource that is plentiful at yard sales, flea markets or salvage yards is old outdoor shutters. Weathered colors offer a great antique look, or custom paint to match your decor. Shutters come in a wide range of sizes — outdoor shutters can range from 15” to 96” tall and from 12” to 24” wide. To make sure that multiple shutters are the same size, lay them flat and then line up the bottom edges against a straight rule to check how level they are across the top. Once you’ve found the perfect pair — or three, or four –you can use them to create a handy wall organizer or privacy screen. 

Choose your shutters depending on how much wall space you want to fill.  Sand, paint, or leave your shutters au natural.
If there are adjustable slats, lock them in the “up” position by securing the tilt rod with a small nail in through its base into the frame. To keep items from slipping through, slip a thin backing board under the tilt rod and attach it to the frame.

Using your cordless power drill, make holes in each of the 4 corners, about 1” from each edge. Choose attractive screws and washers for a finished look.

Mark the bottom edge of the shutter and each screw hole on the wall in pencil. Using your drill to make pilot holes, attach the shutter to the wall.
Using a level, align one or more shutters on either side, butting them tightly to the one you just mounted. Use decorative cabinet pulls along the bottom or sides to create handy spots for hanging small items like keys. Slip mail, photos, etc. into the slats for an organizing system that is as decorative as it is efficient!

Freestanding Screen

The same techniques used to make the organizer can be used to transform old shutters into a privacy screen. Taller shutters can be used as a room divider; shorter ones can camouflage a fireplace or transform a desktop into a private cubby.

Follow the first three steps above.

Choose simple hinges that complement the look of the shutters. I love to hunt down vintage door hinges in brass to give this fun project a completely unique look. Attach the hinges to the edges of shutters, making sure to alternate direction so they will fold down into a stack.

There you have it. Three great-looking quick and easy projects you can do yourself. Total justification for a summer weekend spent prowling flea markets, antique stores, or estate sales. Do it Barbara’s Way! 

Barbara K

1. Adjust cabinet door hinges

A lot of cabinets these days use “European” style hinges, which can become loose, causing the door lean to one side and preventing it from closing all the way. It’s easy to adjust these hinges so they are in alignment. Whether the hinges have one screw connecting the two halves or two, you need a Philips screwdriver. Loosen or tighten the screw or screws counter-clockwise to move the door to the left, and clockwise to move it to the right (righty tighty, lefty loosey).

2. Hang a picture

• Step 1: The perfect spot: Decide where you want to hang your artwork. Consider placement with regard to windows, furniture and environment. Valuable artwork should not be hung in kitchens or bathrooms, over fireplaces or in direct sunlight. If you are hanging the artwork above a piece of furniture, center the bottom of the frame 5 to 8 inches above the furniture. If you are not hanging it over a piece of furniture, position the center of the art at eye level (roughly 5 feet above the floor). Once you’ve measured, mark the spot where the hook will go with a pencil.? 
• Step 2: Protect your walls: Place a small piece of adhesive tape on the wall below the pencil mark. This will keep your wall from cracking when you hammer in the nail. Make sure there is enough “give” in the wire on the back of your artwork to allow it to hang in the proper place. Place the nail through the picture hanger (it will go in at a 45 degree angle) and gently tap it with the hammer.? 
• Step 3: Picture perfect: Hang the wire on the hook and use a level to make sure the artwork is straight. Even if it looks straight to the naked eye, your perception may be thrown off by a slightly settled foundation or the optical illusion of a crooked piece of molding. Now step back and admire your masterpiece. You did it yourself!

3. Hang a curtain rod

• Step 1: Plan your enhancements: Decide where you want to hang your curtain rod by holding the rod up to the wall or window casing. Use your level to make sure the position is straight. Placing the brackets from 3 to 6 inches away from the edge of the window frame will give the illusion of wider windows. Placing the brackets close to the ceiling will make the ceilings appear taller.? 
• Step 2: Choose your spot: If you are placing the brackets on the wooden moldings you can proceed to step two. If you are placing the brackets on the wall, use a stud finder to locate wall studs. You’ll need to use hollow-wall anchors if you’re going to attach the brackets directly to the walls. Once you’ve decided on the placement of the brackets, use the pencil to lightly mark the top of the bracket and the nail holes on the chosen site.? 
• Step 3: Secure the brackets: Use an electric drill to make shallow holes (called pilot holes) to help you start the screws and secure your hardware to the walls.? 
• Step 4: Curtains going up: Slide your curtains on the rod, then hang the rod on the brackets. Take a bow! You just did it yourself!

4. Fix a squeaky bed frame

• Step 1: Metal bed frames: Remove the mattress and box spring. Loosen all nuts and bolts using your wrench and screwdriver. Remove each nut and bolt (one at a time) and wrap the bolt with sealant tape. Install an additional plastic washer between the frame and the existing lock washer and retighten the bolts. ? 
• Step 2: Wooden bed frames: Remove the mattress and box spring. Find each screw connection and remove each screw (one at a time). Rub the screw along a bar of soap until all grooves are filled. Reinstall screw and tighten. If the screw spins in its hole because the wood is stripped, wrap the screw with sealant tape before replacing it.? 
• Step 3: Pleasant dreams: Go ahead and get that beauty sleep. Your bed is now a peaceful place. And you did it yourself!

With last week’s scorching temperatures finally behind us, it’s easy to forget that August (and even September) still hold the promise of more uncomfortably hot and humid days. So take advantage of these cooler days to make a few changes at home that will let you be prepared the next time (and there will be a next time) the mercury creeps above 90 degrees.

Get with the Program.

Your air conditioning shouldn’t be working while you’re not at home. A programmable thermostat (from $30 – $50) lets you preset temperatures for different times of the day so your home is most comfortable when you’re in it. These thermostats are easy to install. Just remove the old thermostat and unscrew the wire leads attached to the terminals on the back. Reattach those wires to the terminals on the new model. 

Psych Yourself Out.

If it’s 100 degrees outdoors, an indoor temperature that is 25 degrees lower feels deliciously cool! Set your thermostat to 75 degrees during the times you are at home. When you leave for more than an hour, turn it up 10 degrees. Reset it to the lower temperature upon your return, and the room will cool down in about 15 minutes. Don’t shut your air conditioner off when you leave, as the condenser needs more power to restart than it does to simply work a little harder than it had been.

Maintain Your Cool.

Keep your AC’s efficient by keeping filters clean. Either install a new one every month when it’s in use (or clean them if you’ve got the washable type). Check the filter’s MERV (minimum efficiency reporting value)–the higher the number, the better filtration it provides.

Be a Fan of the Fan.

The best bargain in hot weather defense strategies is the trusty fan which only costs two to five cents per hour to operate and will make a room feel 4 to 6 degrees cooler. If you do run an air conditioner, a fan will move the cool air around. Since hot air rises–and heavier cool air lingers near the floor–install a ceiling fan (a simple DIY project) and set it to spin counterclockwise to push the hot air at the ceiling down and draw the cool air up. Fans at floor level also help the cooler air circulate. No AC? Set a bowl of ice in front of your fan and then settle yourself in front of the bowl of ice–it’s a quick trick for cooling off on the hottest days.

Give Mother Nature a Hand.

If the temperature at night is dropping into the 70s, open the windows and let fresh air into your home. In the morning, close the window, pull the shades, close curtains or blinds, and flip on the fans. This “farmhouse cooling” technique traps the cooler air in the house and prevents “solar gain”–the increase in temperature when the sun beats through your windows during the day. With the shades drawn, interiors should gain only 1 degree per hour when outdoor temperatures are above 85 degrees.

 If you own a house, you might want to purchase a whole-house fan. This type of unit goes in an upstairs ceiling, ideally in a central hall. Most are made to slip between the joists for easy installation. Run the fan at night with the windows open and it will pull cool air into the house and vent hot air out through the attic. Be sure to get an insulated box to cover the portal in winter. ?

Power Down.

Appliances generate a fair amount of heat, so if it’s an option have a cook out, eat out, or use the microwave to prepare meals. Run the dishwasher at night when it’s cooler. Incandescent bulbs add heat to a house and can make it feel hotter than really is. Replace them with compact fluorescents–which use about 75 percent less energy and emit 90 percent less heat.

Beating the heat doesn’t have to mean absorbing a big hit to your budget. By simply installing a timer or a ceiling fan and following simple tips for temperature control, you can be sure that you’ll get through the rest of the summer without losing your cool.

How to install your own electrical and nonelectrical home items – all the while, saving money and becoming more self-sufficient.

1. Install a dual carbon monoxide and smoke detector

Safety First! Install smoke detectors on every level of your home, including the basement. Make sure there is an alarm near every sleeping area. Because smoke rises, mount smoke detectors approximately 4 to 12 inches from the ceiling. Do not install smoke detectors next to windows, doors, or ducts, where drafts might interfere with their operation. Test your smoke detector at least once a month. Change the batteries at least once a year, and make sure that your smoke detector is UL certified.

2. Install a new doorknob

Doorknobs are functional jewelry for your home. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver and your new doorknob set with the matching strike plate. Detach the doorknob using the screwdriver by pulling out all screws once they are loose. Remove the metal strike plate.  Insert the new bolt into the door and screw it into place.  The slanted side should face the direction that the door closes.  Place the new knob trim between one new doorknob and the door, and insert the doorknob.  Insert the other knob and trim piece on the other side of the door.  Make sure the two are aligned so that the long screws hold them together.  Tighten the screws gradually, alternating sides so that each comes together uniformly.

3. Install a dimmer switch

• Step 1: Getting to the wiring: Unscrew the switch plate and the old switch and lift it out. If the box is metal, be careful not to let the screw terminals on the sides of the switch touch the box.
• Step 2: Testing the circuit: Touch your tester to each wire. If the test light stays off, it is safe to proceed.
• Step 3: Refresh the wiring: Before you replace any wires, especially on a three-way switch – note which wire attaches to each switch terminal. Use masking tape to mark each wire and write what it was attached to. Cut off the wires at the switch terminals and strip about 1/2″ of insulation off the two cut switch wires.
• Step 4: Match the wires: You’ve got a lot of choices here, so pay attention: If your dimmer has two black wires it has no polarity, so twist each dimmer wire together with either one of the switch wires and screw on a wire connector. If the dimmer has a green wire, connect it to the grounding wire. If a dimmer has black and red wires, wire the black one to the incoming power line and the red one to the lights. Keep the wires well apart from each other during this process. Gently fold the wires back into the box and attach the dimmer to the outlet box with screws. Replace the cover plate and press the dimmer dial on to the shaft of the dimmer.
• Step 5: Let there be light: Restore the power and set the mood.

You did it yourself! Barbara’s Way

Did you know that there are a handful of home repairs and renovations you can do yourself?  Especially these days when you may not want to pay $150 an hour for a plumber, or shell out $1000 to a contractor for a paint job you could do over a weekend.  So in this series of three posts I’ll share my list of top 10 do-it-yourself fixes.  Keep these posts in your “everything” drawer.  You’ll save time and money — and might even have some fun in the process!

The perfect toolbox: Just as every woman should have the perfect manicure set, every woman should have the perfect toolkit with the following items: hammer, screwdriver, pliers or wrench, tape measure, Teflon sealant tape, level, electric drill and hex keys. Each tool should be contained in a soft or hard bag within easy reach and kept away from all who might think of taking it!

Bathroom fixes:

1. Change a showerhead

It’s easy to make an old shower look new.  A new showerhead can perk up an old bathroom, improve shower flow and even add a massage feature.  Use pliers or your hand to twist off the old showerhead (counterclockwise) while holding the shower pipe stem.  Wrap the Teflon sealant tape two or three times around the threads at the end of the pipe stem. Using a cloth under the pliers to protect the new showerhead fitting, screw on the new showerhead (clockwise) until tight.  You’ve now earned that hot, steamy shower!

2. Unclog the toilet

Don’t call the plumber!  This is one easy fix you can certainly do yourself. Place the cup of the flanged plunger over the drain outlet, and plunge up and down rapidly while maintaining a seal around the lip of the cup. Slowly pour a 2-gallon bucket of water into the bowl to clear the drain. Repeat plunging, if necessary.

If that doesn’t work, an object may be obstructing the drain. A closet auger, sometimes called a toilet auger, will help. Push the auger cable into the trap (where the water drains out) until the bend sits in the drain opening. Crank the auger handle in a clockwise direction to break up the clog or snag obstructions. Continue to crank as you retrieve the cable and pull the obstruction out of the trap.

3. Repair a running toilet

Step 1: Start with the stopper. Remove the lid and check the guide rod or chain attached to the tank stopper to see if there is any problem with twisting, erosion or buildup that is preventing the stopper from having a complete seal.
 
Step 2: Try the float. Lift the float ball up. If this stops the water from running, try bending the arm so the float ball is buoyant. If the float ball is not floating on top of the water, unscrew the old one and replace it with a new one from the hardware store.
 
Step 3: Eliminate erosion. If the toilet continues to run, there may be buildup or some kind of sediment that is not allowing the stopper to close properly. Check the flush valve and the flush valve seat to see whether there is any damage. The stopper and the valve must be replaced if they are broken.
 
Step 4: Flush away. Your tank should now refill – and stay full.

No more wasted water, and you did it yourself! Barbara’s Way!

Summertime means vacation time — and, like most people, I can’t wait to leave everything behind for some carefree rest and relaxation. Unfortunately, summertime is also peak season for house thefts and there’s nothing relaxing about returning home to find that everything you’ve left behind is gone! Fortunately, a few simple do-it-yourself measures can help you keep your house safe while you’re off enjoying your vacation.

From the Outside In:

The most effective home security program is one that deters burglars as soon as they look at your home. Even something as simple as posting decals or notices that you have an alarm system may be enough to deter a break-in.

Sliding glass patio doors can be easily lifted out of their sliding tracks, but simple pin inserts can prevent vulnerability. To prevent the door from being lifted out of the track, drill a pilot hole in the top track above, and slightly in, from each corner of the sliding door frame section and install a screw into each hole. Adjust the screws so that the head of the screw just barely clears the top of the door when it is moved back and forth. Use a broomstick, metal rod, or wooden dowel in the bottom track to secure the door from opening.

Window bars make it almost impossible to enter your home. But remember, the same safety feature that keeps intruders out can trap you inside: keep the key near the bars.

Install outdoor lighting that operates on timers, light-sensitive photocell mechanisms, or motion detectors. 

Give the impression of activity at your home: Hire someone to keep up with the yard work; ask a friend or neighbor to remove any advertising flyers that are stuffed in your mailbox, or partly under your door, or dropped on your lawn. Stop mail and newspaper delivery until you return. Keep some shades and blinds up and curtains open. Don’t hide keys in mailboxes, under doormats, or any other place that burglars will know to look. Ask one of your neighbors or friends to use your driveway to park their car overnight, or anytime they are at home.

From the Inside Out

The simplest way to make a house look occupied is to have the lights, TV, or radio turn on at differing intervals. Plug-in timers are excellent for activating interior electronics. All you have to do is plug the timer into an outlet and then plug your light or TV into the same outlet.

“Burglar deterrent” CDs offer recorded household sounds selected and recorded to will fill in your apartment with various noises–from kitchen, to living room, even bathroom!–that give the impression that someone is in the apartment

Be sure your fire and smoke detectors’ batteries are fully charged, and put all of your important documents in a steel lock box in a safe location.

Go Wireless.

Advancements in wireless technology have made reliable systems affordable, and you can install a system in an afternoon. Sketch out a rough floor plan of your home and mark those areas where you would like protection. Designate the placement of the main control box near a power source and close to your main entry door, so you can arm and disarm the unit easily. If you prefer an out-of-sight display, choose a system that can be activated and deactivated with a wireless key fob (like the kind that locks and unlocks your car.) If you are using a system that automatically informs police and fire, locate the main controls near a phone line.

Affix the wireless sensors to external doors and windows. These are usually magnetic devices that are triggered when the circuit is broken. Other sensors may be placed throughout your home to detect movement. These motion detection sensors are simply screwed to the wall. Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors can also be added to your system.

Go Hi-Tech

If you really want to know what’s happening when you’re not home (no parties in the pool, kids!) various Web systems allow you to watch and control the camera from any Internet–connected computer through a simple Web browser; others let you give commands and view images via cell phone. Some will even e–mail you video clips at specific times you set, or when the camera detects motion. New programs for the iPhone allow you to control your entertainment system, lighting, HVAC system, security systems, and even your power consumption.

Go Low-Tech

For total peace of mind while you’re floating in the waves at the beach, you don’t always have to do-it-yourself: keep your home and possessions safe by hiring a trusted house sitter!

With everyone making a “break for it,” the Fourth of July Holiday weekend should prove to be a hustle and bustle of families driving to beaches, mountains and backyard bbq’s. With the recent heat wave we’ve been experiencing it’s important to keep your cars in good operating condition to be safe. So here are some suggestions:

FLUIDS

Check your fluids: All fluids should be checked while the car is on a flat surface – otherwise the readings could be inaccurate. Aside from the washer fluid, all fluid systems under the hood are closed, if after replenishing them they again read “low”, something is probably leaking. First, check for fluid underneath your car. If you see droppings you know there is an issue so get it checked out as soon as possible.

Oil: Check it monthly with the engine off (use the barbara’s way grip it gloves to make your work easier and so you dont get grease on your hands. They can be purchased at www.homedepot.com). Change it and the filter every three months or 3,000 miles.

Coolant: Check the level monthly, add when necessary but give the engine the opportunity to cool down. Make sure to have the system flushed once a year.

Transmission: Check it monthly, change it every 2 years or 20,000 miles, or as recommended by the owner’s manual. Automatic transmissions have their own dip-sticks and are usually read when the engine is running and warm. Manual transmissions need to be checked from underneath the car – you’ll probably want to take the car into a service station for this. It’s easiest to have it checked every 3,000 miles when you are getting a regular oil change.

Windshield wiper fluid: Take a peek every week; in winter or during rainy seasons you might want to check it more frequently.

TIRES

Check the pressure (after you have driven a bit) at least once a month. Don’t forget to check the spare tire, too! Not sure what the right pressure is? Most cars have a sticker on the inside of the driver’s side door that will tell you. If you’ve changed tires since the car was new, it’s best to check the sidewall of the tire for recommended pressure. Also, if you hear your tires screeching as you make slow turns, it could mean your tire  pressure is low. Proper tire pressure increases your gas mileage and saves you money.

To use a tire gauge, place it on on the tire valve and just press down. Read the number and check it against your cars specific manual requirements. If air is needed, press the air pump nozzle onto the tire valve to inflate. Some valves require you to press a lever as well. Check the tire pressure with tire gauge again and adjust air if needed. You should rotate the tires every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, or every second oil change.

Wiper blades: Replace once a year, unless there’s obviously a problem like streaking

Air filter: Change once a year, or every 20,000 miles. If you live in an area that’s excessively sandy or dusty, check it twice a year or more.

Safety equipment you should always have in your trunk: Flashlight, jumper cables, emergency beacons or reflectors of some kind (and try to pull the car off the road should any event occur both for your safety and for the safety of other drivers), first aid kit and disposable camera.

Now you can travel safely and you checked your car Barbara’s Way!

As much as kids (and parents) welcome the arrival of summer and long days spent outdoors, it’s inevitable that there will be times when it’s too hot or rainy to make the trek to the playground or beach. Use this indoor time to undertake easy, fun projects that will make a kid’s room into a retreat he or she will want to use all year long.

Gloss over Nothing makes a room feel fresh and clean faster than a new coat of paint. Choose environmentally friendly (low-VOC) paints in easy-to-clean gloss or semigloss finishes.

Also consider the effect colors have on energy levels. Blues and greens feel peaceful and promote relaxation. Red, yellow and orange shades are more energizing. Read more:

Light right Replace traditional light bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Lighting should be bright and focused in homework and reading areas, while play and relaxation areas can have more subdued lighting. Installing dimmer switches lets you adjust as necessary.

Make a mark You’ll be the coolest parent in town when you encourage your kids to mark up the walls. Use painter’s tape to outline a large square on the wall. Be sure to place it at a height your children will grow into. (I suggest trying a 3-by-4-foot rectangle starting approximately 3 feet from the floor.)

Fill in the space using low-VOC chalkboard paint. Attach a decorative molding with mitered corners over the painter’s tape to create a frame.

Get to work A dedicated space for a desk, drawers and shelving that can grow with your kids is worth the investment. Set up a workstation in a quiet corner, or consider installing a custom-built one in a closet.

If your budget allows, you could even steal space from an adjoining room for a bump-out. Set the desktop at about 27 inches high (as opposed to 30 inches for an adult); you can make the work surface higher as your child grows.

Installing recessed lighting overhead and planning for power outlets and data lines ensures that your child won’t outgrow the workspace even as his or her needs grow more sophisticated.

Stow away The easiest way to store out-of-season clothing or bedding is under-the-bed storage boxes; they make handy toy chests, too! You can buy these boxes, but it’s easy to make your own by simply repurposing drawers from an old bureau.

Remove any hardware from the drawers and then sandpaper, prime and paint them as desired. Flip the drawers over and set wheels at each corner.

Use a pencil to mark holes where screws will go. Pre-drill holes with your power drill, line up casters over the holes and attach them with wood screws. Measure the inside of the drawer and cut shelf liner to fit.

For more tips on do-it-yourself summer projects visit barbarasway.com.