I don’t know about you, but if my kitchen were my entry hall, the house would certainly stop there! Forget my beautiful living room or cozy TV room, or even the amazing picture of SLASH playing guitar in my bedroom. My kitchen is a great space that I took special pride in when I built my home…I always focus on the kitchen first.

I think it’s true for many people– the kitchen just ends up being the place everyone congregates, even if you live on a steady diet of frozen and take-out food.  I’m not a cook but that did not stop me from building the best kitchen I could and making it look as if I can cook!

High funtionality, visibility and frequent use are what make a kitchen so valuable.  It’s one of the bet rooms to put money into because it realizes the greatest return on investment in terms of both your own use and future resale value.  You can see a 85 to 150% return on your investment with minor remodeling and 80 to 95% with major gut renovation, especially if you plan on selling within 2 or 3 years of the project’s completion.  In the meantime, you add so much to your life by having a modern, comfortable kitchen– no matter what it’s size and how humble your talents as a cook.  It does not matter!

What does matter are materials.  MATERIALS MATTER! I don’t think you should skimp on kitchen materials.  Buy the best you can afford and spend money wisely by choosing items with high-quality construction, timeless design (think simple and elegant so you won’t tire of them quickly), and high functionality. There’s lots to consider in a kitchen, from the designer to the cabinets, appliances, countertops, doors , archways , windows and more. For now I would like to introduce you to the various countertops to choose from that have come such a long way in recent years.

Countertops Can Make Kitchens Look New!

Out of date or worn countertops makes a perfectly nice kitchen with good cabinets look shabby and old. And that means just one thing and it is good news: a new countertop can make your old but still good looking kitchen cabinets look brand new and fabulous. Since you’re not spending money on an entire kitchen redo which can cost upwards of $40,000 dollars depending on the size and bells and whistles you can afford to splurge on a great countertop that will show off your cabinetry. And there are so many options in countertops now, from affordable granite to marble, concrete, quartz, and even paper yup, you read right, paper!

Here’ a look at my favorite new luxury countertop options:

Natural stone is gorgeous and it is my favorite countertop material. Granite, limestone, slate, marble and soapstone all have a very rich, high-end look. Stone is extremely heavy, durable and resistant to heat. Granite and limestone are porous and need to be sealed periodically. They cost anywhere from $75 to $300 per linear foot, installed.

Engineered stone is a composite of quartz and resin. Because it combines a hard natural material with a strong resin it is more scratch and stain resistant than solid surface and looks like stone but has none of the upkeep in terms of sealing. Depending on the brand, it can cost from $50 to $110 per linear foot, installed.

Concrete is resistant to heat and scratches. But it is porous and is prone to staining unless carefully sealed. Fossils, glass, and even bits of jewelry can be imbedded in concrete for a truly personal counter. It costs from $75 to $150 per linear foot, installed.

Paper is one of the latest countertop materials to hit the luxury building market. Manufacturers harvest wood pulp from managed forests, and treat it with resin. It is then cut to size and baked it comes in a whole range of colors from naturals to reds, blues and greens. It is a very durable scratch, stain, and heat-resistant, made from a sustainable, product, is ultra-modern looking and cost from $110-150 per linear foot, installed.

Well I hope you enjoyed reading my blog on kitchens and countertops.  There is much more to cover in kitchens…but next week I will blog about getting your bathroom in the best shape possible.  I will review various options and tell you what features are worth paying for and which ones are best left on the showroom floor! Remember to visit me at www.barbarak.com for more tips and my latest in cool tools.

Until then “Screw Bang & Drill” the Barbara K way!!

If I Can Do It So Can You!

Peace, Love & Tools…

Barbara K 

They say it’s the year of the rat but I think it should more like the year of the frog.  Everything in my “book” should be GREEN!  Not only is green one of my favorite colors but I’ve instilled effective methods in my home that makes it easy and fun for my son and I to practice what we preach and take part in doing everything we can to be kind to our enviornment.

I send Zach to school with reusable sandwich “boxes” instead of wrapping them in plastic bags- they are plastic and fit a sandwich perfectly. He also takes a drink in a thermos-so retro but so green! No more juice boxes and no more waste and expense. I can also control what I give him for lunch this way.- no pre packaged food. Homemade is better. I try to pack just one napkin and utensils that can be washed and reused to further minimize waste. 

And Zach has a sturdy knapsack made out of recycled materials- Green Earth and Office Supply and www.worldofgood.com sell good ones in kid friendly colors and styles- and they last for years.

Now we stretch computer paper by using both sides of it instead of tossing it in the recycle bin after just one side is used…teachers understand and appreciate this. And we shred some of our paper to use as packing material (we just used it during our last move) and even mulch in the garden. I also now buy “processed chlorine free” (PCF) paper, and the highest percentage of post-consumer recycled (PCR) or post consumer waste (PCW) content. Staples and Office Max both sell good versions of this greener paper. I also look for school notebooks with the same paper- Earth Friendly Second Nature Brand makes good ones.

And of course Zach gets very involved in the household recycling, which we are committed to. He knows where to put bottles, cans and paper and helps keep our home recycling center, organized neat and also ready with a hammer and nails in case he needs to fix something!

Go Green and Stay Green At Home! My top 10 for energy and cost saving tips that are easy in your home.

1. Change standard bulbs to fluorescent models – they last longer, use less electricity. According to energystar.gov: “If every American home replaced just one light bulb with an ENERGY STAR compact fluorescent, we would save enough energy to light more than 2.5 million homes for a year and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of nearly 800,000 cars.” Wow!

2. Lower your thermostat by 1 to 5 degrees and you will save a bundle of money and home heating fuel.

3. Install low flow toilets, showerheads and faucets to save on water – and water bills.

4. Don’t let faucets leak – that wastes water too. It’s easy to replace a leaky faucet yourself! Check out www.barbarak.com for more information.

5. When replacing floorings – choose natural fibers in rugs such as wool,see grass, cotton and silk over synthetics which create more pollution in production and can emit bothersome fumes, especially to those of you who have allergies or who have children with allergies.

6. Putting in a hardwood floor? Consider bamboo instead. It is sustainable,meaning bamboo trees grow fast and easily replace those that are cut down for wood – or use reclaimed wood taken from old houses and barns.

7. Take recycling a step further and consider buying vintage fixtures for renovation projects. Beautiful sinks, tubs, doors, and windows can be found at salvage shops – you get something original and totally one of a kind, and you stop perfectly good stuff (sometimes made even better than new) from ending up in a land fill.

8. Recycle newspaper by shredding it and adding it to your compost pile.

9. If you have a small lawn, try mowing it with a push mower instead of one that uses gasoline or electricity. You get a good workout and it’s free and has no environmental impact. Clippings can go into your garden compost.

10. Buy and use biodegradable cleaning products or make your own. Fume free,and with no dangerous chemicals (for you and the earth) means cleaning is safe and healthy. For example, avoid products that contain chlorine bleach and ammonia, phospahtes, diethylene glycol, nonylphenol ethxylate, and butyl cellosolve, and instead opt for fume free products (read labels) or make your own with pantry items most everyone has on hand, such as baking soda (with a little water it makes a great bathroom cleaner); vinegar and water kills mold; sodium carbonate (washing soda like Borax) cleans clothes and a host of other household surfaces.

Thanks for visitng my blog, hope you got some great information and remember to log on every week for more fix-it advice and tips on saving money and time for easy care-free living in your home.

“If I Can Do It , So Can You”!

Love , Peace & Tools,

Barbara K

Think Ahead For 08, Top Ten Tasks To Tackle And Seven Repairs Everyone Should Know How To Do!!

The tree is on the sidewalk, the last of the eggnog has been sipped, and your mother-in-laws fruitcake has been discreetly left out for the birds. Football season is coming to a close. So, it’s time to think ahead about a few home improvement tasks that you might have put off at the end of the year. Here’s my top ten to tackle now and seven repairs everyone should know how to do a great way to get a jump on spring-cleaning.

1.  Install a programmable thermostat. It’s not to late to start saving on heating bills. Replacing your old thermostat with a programmable is a simple job that can be completed in an afternoon or even quicker by an licensed electrician if you are unsure of your wiring skills (although most thermostats, available at home improvement stores, come with complete instructions).

2. Clean or replace filters in heating and cooling units.

3.  Replace the water filter attached to your main line, your sink, and/or your water pitcher.

4. Clean blinds and shades. You can cut down on allergic reactions by dusting off your window coverings (an area of the home that is often -forgotten). 

5. Send rugs out to be steam cleaned or rent a carpet cleaner and do-it-yourself.

6.  Flip all the mattresses in house. Remember, back to front and top to bottom.

7. Replace the shower curtain liner in your bathroom, if you use one. Mold and mildew can build up and exacerbate allergies and asthma.

8. Tale advantage of January thaw to remove any remaining fallen leaves and branches from around your property, sidewalk in front of your house, or on your balcony, if you have one.

9. Wash your car, inside and out. Salt and sand can damage the finish one your car so spring for the protective coating at the car wash. Vacuum inside as well – the grime on the floor of the car, from winter weather tracked in on your shoes and boots, can wear out the inside of your car too.

10. Replace the welcome mat in front of your door with a coir mat that helps remove snow and dirt from your shoes and gives a warm welcome to old and new friends. 

1. Adjust cabinet door hinges

A lot of cabinets these days use “European” style hinges, and they can become loose, which makes the door lean to one side and inhibits that does not shut all the way. It is simple to adjust these hinges so they are in alignment. Some European hinges have one screw connecting the two halves and others have two. Either way you need a Philips screwdriver. Loosen or tighten the screw or screws counter-clockwise to move the door to the left, and clockwise to move it to the right. (righty tighty lefty loosey)

2. Repair a cracked/broken tile
Time: About 45 minutes
 
What you need:
Bucket for water
Grout to match what’s already on the floor
Hammer
Matching replacement tile
Notched trowel
Putty knife
Safety glasses
Sponge , Grout saw
Tile adhesive (for this job you can used pre mixed adhesive, no need to mix thinset)
Wood or cold chisel
Work gloves
Tile cutter (optional is you are replacing a tile that has been cut to fit in a particular space)

1. Isolate the damaged tile or tiles so that other tiles don’t get damaged in the process. (It’s likely that you’ll have to break up the cracked of damaged tile with a hammer in order to can get it out.) To protect the surrounding tiles from your hammer’s shock waves, remove the grout that surrounds it with a grout saw.  grout saw is very inexpensive and easily found at any home improvement center or hardware store. Simply drag the saw blade through the grout.  It will take some time to cut all the way through (up to 20 minutes), but it’s time well spent. You could also use a rotary tool with a cutting tip to take out the grout, but unless you already have one, a grout saw is cheaper and just as good. If you do use a rotary tool use safety glasses!

2. Once you’ve removed all the grout around the damaged tile, lay a hand towel over the tile and hit it with hammer until the tile is broken into 2-inch pieces. Put on your work gloves and remove the pieces. Discard them.

3. Use a chisel to remove the adhesive from the floor. Take care not to gouge the floor or backerboard. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any flying debris.

4. Vacuum up any small rubble. If the floor’s not completely clean, the replacement tile won’t adhere properly.

5. You should have one full box of extra tiles on hand (for just this sort of occasion) but if you don’t you can buy a new one. If you can’t find an exact match, try to find one that closely resembles it.  A slightly mismatched tile is better than a broken one.

6. If you are replacing a tile that has been cut to fit a space, measure it by taking the replacement tile and placing it on top of the area where the old tile was removed. Line up the edges by matching the tile pattern, if there is one, and use a crayon to mark the cut line. Use a manual tile cutter to make the cut along the line you made. It makes a series of cuts in the tile. You can then snap the tile (where gloves and safety glasses) along the line.

7. In this situation, it’s better to butter the back of the new tile than trying to trowel adhesive onto the floor. Use a putty knife to butter the back of the tile with adhesive.  Create even notches in the adhesive with the trowel.
 
8. Place the tile in the opening and tap it down gently with a hammer covered with the towel, or even better a rubber mallet. Be gentle – you don’t want to break another tile! Make sure it is level with the other tiles.
 
1. Let it dry for 24 hours before applying grout.
 
2. Use a grout float to press the grout around the edges of the tile. Use a sponge or towel to wipe the excess from the top of the tile. After about 30 minutes, wide any grout that has that has formed on the tile away. Wait another day before walking on it.

3. Repair a hole in drywall
Small and medium holes
What you need: Fiberglass tape
Joint compound
Putty knife
Fine grit sandpaperIf the hole is two inches of less, repair it with fiberglass tape.
1. Fill the hole with joint compound and stretch tape across the hole.
2. Apply two or three coats of joint compound on top. Allow drying time between each layer and sand between coats.
3. Prime and paint when the final layer is dry and sand.

4. Clear a clog in the toilet or overflowTime: About 20 minutes

What you need:
 
·Bucket of water
· Closet or toilet auger
· Flanged plunger
· Shop vac or bucket and mop

How to get it done:

1.  Place the cup of the flanged plunger over the drain outlet, and plunge up and down rapidly while maintaining a seal around the lip of the cup.

2. Slowly pour a 2-gallon bucket of water into the bowl to clear the drain. Repeat plunging, if necessary.
 
3. If that doesn’t work, an object may be obstructing the drain. A closet auger, sometimes called a toilet auger, will help. Push the auger cable into the trap until the bend sits in the drain opening. Crank the auger handle in a clockwise direction to break up the clog or snag obstructions. Continue to crank as you retrieve the cable and pull the obstruction out of the trap.
.
Note: If more than one toilet or drain in your home is backing up, the point where the waste lines come together could be blocked. Long augers are available for these situations and are best used by a licensed plumber. Here’s what the plumber will do: If the main drain line doesn’t have a clean-out access, long augers or “snakes” can be inserted directly through the toilet flange. This may require temporarily removing the toilet.

5. Clear a clogged sink drain

Time: About 15 minutes

What you need:

·Plunger
· Rag

How to get it done:

1. Remove the drain stopper. You may have to remove the pivot rod to free the stopper. (See instructions in the previous project.). Some pop-up stoppers lift out directly and others turn counterclockwise. If it’s a kitchen sink, remove the strainer.
 
2. If you are clearing a bathroom sink, stuff a wet rag in the sink overflow opening to prevent air from breaking the suction of the plunger. The overflow is the opening located in the sink under the faucet area or opposite it. If you are clearing a double kitchen sink, remove the strainer and stuff a wet rag in the drain of the other clog-free sink.

3. Place the plunger cup over the drain and run enough water to cover the lip of the cup. Use the handle to move the center of the cup up and down rapidly and forcefully without breaking the seal of the plunger lip.

If cleaning the pop-up stopper and plunging doesn’t get rid of the clog, you may have to clean out the sink trap.  That’s the U-shaped pipe below the sink. Cleaning it out seemed pretty daunting to her, especially since it requires loosening and temporarily removing the trap so it can be emptied of build up that is obstructing the water.  It’s also a job that a plumber will charge big bucks for, so why not learn to do yourself?

Remove & Clean a Sink Drain Trap
Time: About 30 minutes 

What you need:

· Adjustable wrench
· Bottle brush
· Bucket
· Clean rags

How to get it done:
 
1. The trap is the U-shaped pipe directly under your sink. Place a bucket under the trap to catch water and waste material.
 
2. Loosen the slip nuts on the trap bend with pliers or a pipe wrench. Then unscrew the nuts by hand and slide them away from the connections, then carefully pull off the trap bend.
 
3. Dump out waste material, and clean the trap with a small bottlebrush. Inspect the slip nut washers for wear, and replace them, if necessary.

3. Measure the distance of the blades from the ceiling. It is important that all the blades reside on the same plane. Hold one end of the measuring tape at the ceiling while rotating the blades manually to check the distance.
 
4. If a blade is not level or equally distanced to the other blades, you must gently bend the blade that is out of place. It is easier to do this step with an extra pair of hands. One person should hold the fan while the other person bends the blade.

7. Free a stubborn drawer

Time: 10-15 minutes

What you need:

• Soap or candle

• Block plane

How to get it done:

1. If the drawer doesn’t operate smoothly when you open and close it, remove it and rub a candle or even a clean white bar of soap over the top and bottom sides.

2. If that doesn’t work, the drawer might have become too big for its opening. Remove the drawer and run a block plane along the top edge of the sides. Don’t take off too much – remove just a bit and keep testing until the  drawer operates smoothly.

If I can do it so can you!! Barbara K