Home Improvement for Women

Do you dream of owning a vacation home in a super desirable place like the Hamptons but find that the prices are beyond your means? Well, you might be able to afforf your own little piece of heaven if  you’re willing to make a few trade-offs. For example, my house is located on a quiet street that’s a short drive from the beach. If the same house were on the water, it would probably sell for two or three times as much.

Here’s a breakdown of things you might have to consider if you want to get closer to the place of your dreams. With just a few concessions, you could be able to get the area you want for less than you expected.

CONDO ASSOCIATION

Consider a condo: They’re almost always less expensive than private homes, even when you figure in the monthly maintenance costs.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Check out first floor units, which are usually less expensive than top-floor apartments simply because you’re likely going to be exposed to more noise and have less privacy and not as-ideal views

NOTHING TO SEE HERE

Homes without views are less expensive. You might land steps from the water by buying a place that is behind a property in a prime location.

DON’T FENCE ME IN

Nongated communities are cheaper than gated ones; however, security could be an issue, and there may be fewer amenities, such as pools and tennis courts.

TAKE A RIDE

A five-minute drive to the water can make the difference between a $1 million cottage and a $500,000 one.

THINK SMALL

How low can you go in terms of square footage? The smaller vacation home, the cheaper it will most likely be.

STRETCH YOUR BOUNDARIES

Communities with limited amenities are less expensive than those with trendy shops and restaurants. Consider moving just outside of your target area – you might be able to get water front property in a less developed or up-and-coming community.

GET DOWN WITH IT

Resort communities usually have downtowns where homes can  be cheaper than those in more private areas. The upside is you are close to shopping and food – the downside is congestion and noise.

DON’T LIVE ON THE EDGE

The cost of insurance increases the nearer a piece of property is to the water. If you are within 1,000 feet, you’ll be paying big bucks.

SPLIT DECISION

Share the cost: This doesn’t work for everyone, but consider buying with a friend or family member. Consult with an attorney to make sure the terms of the purchase make everyone happy.

If I can do it, so can you!

6 SIMPLE THINGS YOU CAN DO TO IMPROVE YOUR HOME

Home Improvement projects don’t have to be complicated or time-consuming. Here are some easy upgrades you can do over a weekend. And some take only a few hours, or, even better, just minutes to complete.

DIM SOME

Dimmers are an easy way to add ambiance. It will take you less than an hour to install each fixture – less if you have some experience. Don’t forget to turn the electricity off before starting. Kits cost anywhere from $15 to $35.

BLADES OF GLORY

Change the blades on your ceiling fan – several companies make replacement blades in a variety of shapes and finishes. Make sure you buy a universal kit so it fits your fan. Kits cost anywhere from $45 to $150.

LIGHT IT UP

Replace regular bulbs with energy saving compact fluorescent bulbs. They last longer and save energy, which makes up for their initial cost ($5 to $10 each).

MADE IN THE SHADE

While you’re at it, take a critical look at your lampshades. Do they look worn and dirty? Fusty and old-fashioned? It could be time to replace them. Measure your current shades heights and shop for replacements in modern shapes and colors. Plan on spending $10 on up for each shade.

DIVIDE AND CONQUER

This project can make like run more smoothly and it’s relaxing to do in front a good movie. Many retailers, from the Container Store to Target, sell drawer organizers that should fit your budget and style. Sock and jewelry dividers, sweater separatorsand decorative storage bags make sorting easy. From $5 to $50

HOOK UP

Hooks don’t take up much space and they’re so practical for hanging coats, towels, dog leashes and backpacks. If you are screwing the hooks into drywall or plaster, be sure to use wall anchors for stability. Hooks range from a few dollars to $30 each.

If I can do it, so can you!

The renovation fantasy of many women is a contractor with golden hair, blue eyes and a leather tool belt slung seductively around his hips who perfectly remodels your kitchen in a matter of days.

I have news for you: That guy from TLC – he’s not coming to  your house. Your average contractor typically enters your home and never comes back or chills in the living room like it’s his.

So how do you get a renovation project completed before your 2 year old starts college? Read on for some sure fire tactics.

CHECK REFERENCES

Whether your contractor comes recommended or was found in the phone book, make reference calls. Ask the Department of Consumer Affairs about any complaints, and check with your local building office to makse sure he has the necessary license. Last, check out the contractor’s work first hand if you can.

DETAILS COUNT

Be specific from the get-go on what you want done. This means a list of all tasks needed to complete the job. I recommend a blueprint out-lining what needs to be completed along with the necessary materials and fixtures with model numbers. Have your contractor include a reasonable schedule with start and end times, lead times on equipment and materials, and details on daily cleanup, supervision, rubbish removal and insurance requirements. Last, make sure your contractor abides by the requirements for freight elevators and time requirements for working in co-ops and condos.

TALK THE TALK

You don’t have to be a builder to hire one, but you should understand the basics of a construction project. My books “Room for Improvement” and “Invest in your Nest” teach you about basic repairs, construction jobs and how to talk intelligently to a contractor.

AGREE ON A BUDGET

Make sure your budget is reasonable for all the tasks and remember: Changes and additions cost money. Have the contractor separate the labor from the material charges. All cost associated with  your project should be outlined in a standard CSI (Construction Systems Institute) format, which outlines each trade necesary to build your project. By doing this, you can keep track of what’s been completed, and pay accordingly. Never pay a contractor a deposit of more than one-third of the material portion of the project.

STAY INVOLVED

Your contractor should provide full-time, on site supervision, so you don’t need to watch every move. However, the more you get involved and communicate with your contractor, the quicker and more precise your project will get done.

PUNCH IT UP

Punch lists for every phase of a project will keep things on track. This is especially important during the last phase – a time when many contractors start new jobs and stop coming to yours. Remember, no job is perfect the first time. Sometimes you have to tighten a hinge yourself; however, don’t pay for work that is not satisfactory. And don’t pay the last 1o percent of the total until the punch list has all required sign-offs.

PAPER WORKS

Sign a contract and paper all communication. If a contractor fails to show up for work, write a letter, certify it and keep it and keep it in your records. Every change to the contract, mishap on the job and missed day of work should be put in writing.

PROTECT YOURSELF

Before any work begins ask to see your contractor ’s general liability and workers compensation policies. Make sure you are listed as the “additiona insured” on the liability policy. Finally, call the insurance companies to verify that these policies are active, in full force and in good standing.

If I can do it, so can  you!

The city is awash in noise – whether it’s their stereo speakers to the limit, a recycling truck showing up at 7am on a Saturday, or your own kids practicing for “The Next Great American Band.” Whatever the reason, there is a cure, and it all boils down to one thing: soundproofing. Here are some sure fire ways to keep things quiet.

SOUNDPROOF A WALL

One quick way to soundproof a wall is adding another layer of sheetrock. The crucial trick is to make sure that your new layer of soundproofing does not transmit reverberations from the old wall.

Make sure the sheetrock joins along seams that are different than those of the original wall – this avoids creating a new channel for sound. Use heavy adhesive to keep the sheetrock in place as you nail it in along the studs. Be sure you locate the studs with a stud finder or tape measure (studs are typically found every 16 inches on center from the start of the wall) before putting up the new layer. Finish the wall with seam tape and joint compound.

Finally pad your walls with fabric. Use luaun (a thin wood) and sstaple gun battinc and fabric. Apply it to your walls with industrial-strength Velcro and a couple of discreet tack nails.

SOUNDPROOF A CEILING

If your ceiling is flat, you can do the job quickly by simply gluing acoustical tiles to the ceiling with a strong adhesive. If your ceiling is uneven or bumpy, or if you need particularly strong soundproofing, consider adding a dropped ceiling. This creates a level plane with frames in which the tiles rest.

Dropped ceilings come in many styles and are less institutional-looking than they once were, although you will still lose about five inches of height. Before installing the dropped ceiling’s frame, you can also staple insulation to the original ceiling to create yet another layer of noise-reducing material. (As a bonus, this will also increase the room’s energy efficiency).

CHANGE DOORS AND ADD CARPETING

Replace hollow-core doors with heavier solid-core doors to minimize sound transmission between rooms. Install wall to wall carpeting with extra-thick carpet pads underneath. If you don’t like or can’t install wall-to-wall carpeting, get room sized rugs and extra-thick carpet pads. Or, place a carpet pad on the floor, add a sisal rug, and then put another more colorful rug on top of that. Triple padding cuts down on noise and looks stylish.

GO FOR THE GLUE

A new product on the market called Green Glue (greengluecompany.com) is fairly inexpensive and easy to work with, although I recomment hiring a contractor to apply it unless you are a confident DIYer.

Green Glue is slathered between two rigid surfaces (your wall and another sheet of drywall, for example).

It takes about 10 days to cure and for you to begin to notice a difference in the sound, and nearly a month before it reaches its peak capabilities. You can also use Green Glue on your ceiling.

If I can do it (quietly), so can you!

YOU’VE heard the phrase “You bbreak it, you buy it.” But for apartment renters, sometimes “You break it, you fix it” is the best course of action. (After all, the landlord doesn’t need to know that you wash your cat in the sink, right?) Many things that go awry in your place can be simple to repair. And if you can do it yourself, you won’t need to wait around for the super.

FIX A CLOGGED TOILET: (time: about 20 minutes)

What you need: Bucket of water, flanged (ball) plunger

1. Place the cup of the plunger over the drain, and plunge up and down rapidly while maintaining a seal around the lip of the cup.

2. Slowly pour a two-gallon bucket of water into the bowl to clear the drain. Repeat plunging, if necessary.

3. If that doesn’t work, an object might be obstructing the drain. That’s when you need a closet (or toilet) auger an might want to call your super.

CLEAR A CLOGGED SINK DRAIN: (time: about 15 minutes)

What you need: Plunger & Rag

1. Remove the drain stopper. Some stoppers lift out directly, and other turn counterclockwise. If it’s a kitchen sink, remove the strainer.

2. If you are clearing a bathroom sink. stuff a wet rag in the sink overflow opening to prevent air from breaking the suction of the plunger. The overflow is the opening located in the sink under the faucet area or opposite it. If you are clearing a double kitchen sink, remove the strainer and stuff a wet rag in the drain of the other clog free sink.

3. Place the plunger cup over the drain and run enough water to cover the lip of the cup.

4. Use the handle to move the center of the cup up and down rapidly and forcefully withouth breaking the seal of the plunger.

FREE A STUBBORN KITCHEN DRAWER: (time: About 10-15 minutes)

What you need: Soap or candle block plane

1. If the drawer doesn’t open smoothly, remove it and rub a candle or a clean white bar of soap over the top and bottom ends.

2. If that doesn’t work, the drawer might have become too big for it’s opening. Remove the drawer and run a block plane along the top edge of the sides. Don’t take off too much – remove just a bit and keep testing until the drawer moves easily.

FIX A HOLE IN DRYWALL: (time: about 15 minutes, plus drying times)

What you need: fiberglass tape, joint compound, putty knife, fine-frit sandpaper

1. Be sure that the hole is no wider than 2 inches.

2. Fill the hole with joint compound, and stretch tape across the hole.

3. Apply two or three coats of joint compound on top. Allow drying time between each layer.

4. Sand between coats.

5. Prime and paint when the final layer is dry.

If I can do it, so can you!

CONGRATULATIONS, rookie buyer! You’ve found a home you love. But hold on! Before you submit an offer, you should have the place inspected.

A home inspection should cost from $500 to $1000 and take two to four hours depending on the property. Look for an inspector who has several years of experience and is certified by the American Society of Home Inspectors. The inspectors will look at all the structural features of the house including:

Foundation: Is there evidence of cracks, shifting or excessive moisture?

General construction: How good is the quality of basic instruction?

Exterior: If the property is a house, does it need exterior repairs or maintenance? What is the approximate age of the roof? What is the estimated remaining life of the roof? What about landscaping? Have mature trees or shrubs close to the house caused damage to the foundation?

Pests: Is there anyindication of pests, such as rodents, termites or carpenter ants?

Plumbing: What is the overall condition of the plumbing system? Is there evidence of leaks or water-pressure problems/

Electrical: Do any dangerous electrical situations or code violations exist? What is the electrical -output capacity?

Heating and cooling system: What are the ages of these systems?

Interior: Do doors and windows open and close properly? Are floors firm and level?

Kitchen: Are appliances functioning properly? Is the plumbing, including the dishwasher connection, in good repair?

Bathroom: Is the floor solid? Is there evidence of old or new water leaks?

Attic and basement: Are the floor and ceiling joists solid? Is there any indication of water damage or mold?

Radon testing: Is there an unacceptably high level of radon in the home? Homes all over the US have been found to have some level of radon. Check the EPA Web site at epa.gov for more information.

Tripping in high heels, sipping grande mocha lattes, paying too much attention to their pets – stars, they’re just like us, right? Well probably not, when it comes to home repairs. After all, when you’re rich and famous, do you really want to unclog a sink yourself?  

Well, you might be surprised to find that there are plenty of boldface names who get their hands dirty – literally.  

I’m on a mission to find out how prominent New Yorkers create and repair their homes. This week, I’m sitting down with talk-show host Kelly Ripa. 

“At a certain point it becomes a necessity to be able to fix things yourself,” Ripa says. “I’ve been married a long time, but when I was a single girl living in the city, there was a time I fixed everything myself.”

Q: Tell us about your home and how you renovated it.  

A: It was a two-year renovation and I had to deal with the Landmarks [Preservation Commission] in order to get our building permit. They don’t allow barriers or any kind of structures that change the look of the outside. You can’t put just any permanent barriers up, so we did natural borders with strong trees around our house – all bamboo and hollies. When you are down on the street, it looks like a forest. When you look up, you would never know someone lives up there!  

Q: What is your favorite room in your home and why?

A:The laundry room is my favorite because I spend so much time there! Between my kids – who are 11, 7 and 5 – I’m always washing clothes. I really would like a chandelier in the room and I asked my husband Mark to hang one. He just put a TV in there for me and I love it!

Q: What was the last thing you fixed yourself?

A: The handles on my daughter’s chair in her bedroom. I actually used your toolkit to do this. I used the screwdriver for the screws that came loose from the handle.  

Q: What was the last thing your husband fixed?

A: My husband fixes everything. He comes from a long line of fix-it people. The knob fell off in my daughter’s shower – everything in her bedroom and bathroom is so delicate. My husband fixed the knob. My husband and father-in-law fixed the garbage disposal. I actually documented this by taking pictures and showed them during [my father-in-law’s] 70th birthday!

Q: Who do you call when there’s a leaky faucet?

A: I would absolutely call my husband and he would instantly fix it.

Q: Have you every vise-gripped anything?

A: Eighth grade in shop when we made our napkin holders for our parents. I haven’t vise-gripped anything since then.

Q: What would you want to know how to fix?

A: I wish I knew how to repair toilets. I don’t know what the story is, but our toilets go quickly and are always in need of repair. I don’t know what the kids put down there.

Q: How is your dressing room decorated?

A: Ty Pennington just renovated my studio dressing room at “Live with Regis & Kelly.” I wanted something very serene where I could relax before I went on air. My dressing room is full of artwork – paintings and pictures of my kid’s projects.  

Q: Are you handier than Regis?

A: Yes, I am, and he admits this and so does his wife, Joy, that he is not handy at all. 

Q: While I’m here, is there anything that you want me to help you fix?

A; Only if I can help. I absolutely love tools! Let’s hang my daughter’s picture that she made me from school. Also, I dropped my earring down the drain. Maybe you can help get it out? 

I never thought it was going to happen! With all the unseasonably warm weather we’ve had it seemed as if we were going to skip winter entirely! Ha, but the cold air blew in and hit me like a hard packed snowball! Now is the time to do basic home winterization – before the temperature really drops. Here is my budget checklist for evaluating and maintaining your home, inside and out, in preparation for a warm and safe winter.

Interior:

1. Look for any leaks that may cause water to drip in your home and fill

2. Seal and cracks, gaps or holes with caulk and weather-stripping.

3. Seal gaps and cracks around windows and door and check windowpanes.

4. Inspect insulation in your attic to make sure it is in good condition and all gaps are       filled. Heat rises!

5. Have your fireplace and flue/chimney cleaned. Use a sturdy screen in front of your fireplace and make sure to open when using the fireplace and close afterward it to avoid     any heat loss.

6. Make sure your heating vents are clean and checked by a licensed HVAC professional. Have ducts cleaned and filters changed.

7. Insulate your gas tank or keep extra propane in the garage.

8. Keep your water hot! Insulate your water pipes.

9. Test your smoke alarm/carbon monoxide detector and change the batteries.

10. Install storm windows or replace old windows that are not made from insulated glass.

11. Make sure your ductwork is properly sealed.

Exterior:

1. Clean leaves from gutters

2. Look for damaged shingles and leaky vents on and around roof and replace or repair.

3. Make sure all steps, railings, walkways, driveways around your house are in good shape – crack free and level. You don’t want anyone to fall.

4. Drain and cut off all outside water and shut off outside faucets.

5. Power wash deck and waterproof. Empty planter pots and stack upside down, and store until next spring.

6. Cover window air conditioning units to conserve heat loss.

7. Trim your trees by cutting off or removing any weak or long branches that can break and fall under the weight of snow or ice.

8. Add a layer of mulch to your garden – like a blanket for your shrubs and perennial flowers.

9. Cover or store deck furniture and grill.

10. Insulate water pipes that are exposed to the cold weather.

Create a Winter Emergency Kit:

-Flashlight

-Extra Batteries

-Candles

-Matches, Lighter

-First Aid Kit

-barbara k! 30 pc toolkit

-Snow shovel

-Insulated grip gloves

-Hand operated can opener and/or army knife

-Salt for sidewalk and driveways

-Wood for the fireplace

-Bottled water

Last but certainly not least , have lots of wood stacked by your fireplace and plenty of hot chocolate in the cupboard!

If I can do it so can you!