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Overview:
This project will show you how to make a stone tile backsplash. Protect your wall from grease and water spatters and give your kitchen a professional, attractive look by installing a stone tile backsplash.
Materials:
tiles, spacers, adhesive, grout, stone sealant (for tiles)
Tools You'll Need:
2-in-1 level, 6-in-1 screwdriver, 6-in-1 putty knife, 10ft. or 25ft. tape measure
Before You Begin:
Working with tiles isn't difficult, but there's always a certain amount of breakage involved when cutting. When deciding how much tile to purchase, make sure to buy extra. Tile is sold by the square foot, so measure the length and height of the backsplash area and multiply by two to get the square footage (then add 10% for waste). Tell the supplier how much you'll need and you're all set. Also remember grout comes in a wide variety of colors, so you can choose one that either matches or sets off your tile (but beware - white grout in a kitchen gets dirty fast!)
Barbara's Tips:
If your tiles are porous stone, they'll soak up all the moisture from the grout, so it's a good idea to wet them before applying grout.
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Step 1: Prep Work
Clean and dry the area you'll be working on. Remove faceplates from electrical outlets/light switches/phone lines. Check your existing countertop backsplash with a level. If it's straight, you're in good shape. Place a single tile on top of the existing backsplash and draw a level reference mark all the way around the area you'll be working on. If it's not straight, put a tile on top of the lowest point of the existing backsplash, and draw a reference line based on that.
Step 2: Testing, Testing
Find the center of the area you're working on. Make a test run of your tiling work by placing the edge of one tile (spacers in place) on that center mark, and then holding a second tile up next to it. Using the level reference line you made in step one, above, lay out the entire wall using those two tiles, lifting one over the other till you reach a corner. The goal here is not to have small corner pieces - if necessary, repeat your test run, moving the first tile over the center mark. Plan to put whole tiles at wall edges to minimize exposure of cut tile surfaces. Make note of which tiles you'll need to trim (don't forget about those that will need to be cut to accommodate the fixtures whose faceplates you removed above - light switches, outlets, phone jacks, etc.).
Step 3: Tiling, Tiling
Holding your notched trowel at a 45-degree angle to the wall, spread on the mastic adhesive. Start at the center reference mark, spread vertically to the level reference line, then horizontally. The mastic will dry in about ten minutes, so don't spread more at one time than you can tile. Again starting at the center mark, set tiles firmly in place. Check every few tiles to make sure your work is level. Corner pieces should be set last, unless they require no cutting. Tiles that need to be trimmed for outlet access should now be cut and set as needed. Repeat for a second row of tiles, if layout requires. Finish by cutting corner pieces to size and setting in place, cut edges to corner.
Step 4: Break Out The Grout
Let the tile set as required (see adhesive directions). Mix grout with a drill mixing attachment to the rough consistency of peanut butter. Apply grout with a rubber grout float. Let set for ten minutes, and then wipe away excess at a 45-degree angle. Apply sealant to tiles, and let dry. Replace fixture faceplates (you may need longer screws). Step back and admire your new-looking, easier-to-clean kitchen. Congratulations - you did it yourself!
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